India, Rajasthan, early 19th century
Two long fabrics, one in fine cotton muslin dyed using the laharia technique, which means "wave", the other in orange silk lampas embroidered with silver threads.
Condition: slight chips and tears.
Size: 280 x 14 cm and approx. 1040 x 10 cm.
The paag (turban) is a symbol of identity, pride and courage in the Indian state of Rajasthan. Some of these turbans feature up to seven colors in a complex pattern of narrow zigzags that differ in size. The rhythmic sequence of zigzagging waves gives a fascinating impression of liveliness and a touch of modernity. Colors and patterns are related to seasons, rituals and ceremonies, as well as moods. Yellow, for example, is the color of spring and happiness. "Leheriya", the zig-zag pattern, represents rain and is worn during the rainy season. Very few turbans have survived. Some wear and tear testify to their frequent use and age. Only a handful of examples of this type of commercial fabric are known,For more information, see the exhibition "Peacock in the desert: the Royal arts of Jodhpur", Museum of fine arts, Houston, March 4 - August 19, 2018.
Two leheria turbans, one tie-and-dyed, the other embroidered with silver, India, Rajasthan, early 19th century.
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