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Lot n° 24

AN EARLY 20th CENTURY GOLD, SAPPHIRE AND PEARL...

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AN EARLY 20th CENTURY GOLD, SAPPHIRE AND PEARL COIN PURSE, BY TIFFANY & CO. CIRCA 1900Designed as a delicate fine gold woven mesh purse enhanced by two cabochon sapphires on the clasp and strap, with a seed pearl tassel and floral engraved closure, to a mesh-link wrist-strap, in 14K gold, signed Tiffany & Co., length 29.5cmArt Nouveau was the first truly international design movement of the twentieth century and owing to its close association with the work of Louis Comfort Tiffany became known as the Tiffany Style in America. It was popular between 1890-1910, during the period known as the belle époque. Jewellery was one of the most important expansions of this movement and the industry underwent a stylistic revolution.Soft, sinuous lines and organic forms inspired by flora and fauna characterise the jewellery of this period. To decorate these natural motifs, jewellers favoured the use of smaller gemstones rather than larger, more dramatic diamonds as seen in the previous centuries. The decorative femininity and elegance of this period could be beautifully described through pastel enamels, miniature gemstones, and curved metal lines, making jewellery the perfect medium to express the spirit of the Art Nouveau.Louis Comfort Tiffany took up the study of enamels and jewellery more than 20 years after he established his reputation in the decorative arts. He was always eager to conquer new artistic terrain. As an artist who participated in major expositions of the day in Paris and elsewhere, Tiffany was well acquainted with European, primarily French and Belgian, Art Nouveau jewellers of the age, including René Lalique, Henri Verver and Philip Wolfers. Louis Comfort joined Tiffany in 1902 and established the “Tiffany Art Jewellery” department. This new division was headed up by Julia Munson and was responsible for the production of highly imaginative and innovative Art Nouveau pieces. Tiffany’s design studios and workshops forged their international reputation and estab

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