CHRISTIAN DIOR HAUTE COUTURE PAR JOHN GALLIAN... Lot n° 216

Un bel ensemble de soirée comprenant un body et une robe, collection « Freud Fetish », Automne-Hiver 2000-01 A fine evening ensemble, 'Freud Fetish' collection, Autumn-Winter 2000-01, labelled and numbered 31618, comprising: a bias-cut dress covered in shimmering black sequins, the diagonal neckline with triple flounces of chiffon, the long trained skirt with off-centre kick-split to the front, another to the back the hem inset with godets of pin-tucked black chiffon, low, bare asymmetric back opening culminating in bustle-like sequin and chiffon flounces, with elaborate jewelled shoulder straps and diagonal back strap, finger loop to hem edge; together with a heavily boned scarlet satin corset/body, with shaped breast cups, back laced, with zip and popper fastenings to lycra lower section, bust approx 86cm 34in, waist 66cm 26in The Dior 'Freud/Fetish' collection is arguably one of Galliano's finest. The luxurious workmanship, the imaginative designs and sheer beauty of the collection took the atelier and Galliano to a new level. The 'Freud' collection dealt with themes of suppressed sexuality, fantasy and fetishism. Galliano explained his ideas for this show: "I believe Monsieur Dior was the first true fetishist designer. He had an Oedipus complex, he was in awe of his mother and his New Look was full of fetish symbolism. You only have to look at the high heels, the corsets, which emphasised the bust and waist, the big skirts which emphasised the hips." John Galliano interview with Hilary Alexander, The Telegraph, 8 July 2000. The show begins with the imaginative tale of a doomed wedding with bride and groom handcuffed together (Dior rhinestone inset ones of course) with a lavishly bejewelled demonic priest with nipped waist (in a Mr Pearl corset), the soignee wedding party including Marisa Berenson as the mother of the bride. As the show progressed it included more dream/nightmare like phases including a dominatrix, a judge with hangman's noose necklace, a Japanese puppet, and a clockwork doll in 18th century style polonaise gown embroidered with guillotine scenes. This particular look was modelled by Sophie Dahl in the role of the 'Sexy Maid', with pale doll-like makeup and rosebud lips. The seductive dress and corset was largely concealed by the maid's white cotton apron and hat and accessorised with a feather duster.